As great as the Cabot stain was to apply on new wood, as difficult is their "problem solver oil based primer.
And I thought scraping and sanding was "hell". No, applying this primer was likely worse. Tempted to dilute it to make it easier to work with, but it specifically states on the can "do not thin", so I decided to fight it out.
Luckliy, there is not THAT much that need to be done this year (south side and over old deck), but it is more than enough. Had I known that it'd be this tough, I would probably have ripped the old (very dense wood, good quality) fascia boards off, and replaced them with new cedar boards. It would not had been cheap (why does it feel like highway robbery to buy cedar, very abundant around here...), but in retrospect, I would only have had to stain the cedar and could have left the soffit, overhangs, and rafter tails in their old boring cream color.
OK, this will look better for sure.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Sunday, July 19, 2009
Pressure washing, scraping, and sanding
For the past three days, I have been cleaning the old soffits, overhangs, and rafter tails. They've always been (American standard) a boring cream color, but sicne we have decided to have all our trim in an Evergreen color to match roof, these guys need to be painted/stained as well.
I guess there is just nothing as boring as scraping old paint and prepping it for a new coat, but everyone says that 95% of the success is in the prep work. I am just not in the mood to EVER do this again, so it'd better be done correct the first time.
Now it's done. Time for putting on a primer tomorrow.
I guess there is just nothing as boring as scraping old paint and prepping it for a new coat, but everyone says that 95% of the success is in the prep work. I am just not in the mood to EVER do this again, so it'd better be done correct the first time.
Now it's done. Time for putting on a primer tomorrow.
Friday, July 17, 2009
New CATV cable
After having lived off Comcast's VERY old cable for eons (it has an unknown number of splices in the yard, reducing the signal strength once in the house), and now with the chimney gone, ethernet and coax cabling properly routed throughout the house, and ready to be terminated on the new patch/interconnect panel, it was time to call Comcast and have a technician come out and "pull some cable.
Should be fairly quick sicne I have a 1 and 1/4 inch conduit running in the yard, all the way from their pole, to my "connection" closet. Also left a pull string when I put in the conduit so it should be an easy task.
"Marcus" showed up on Friday afternoon, seemingly happy that I had prepared more or less everything. He did not have any cable lubricant, and knowing the size of the conduit, the few bends, neither of us though we needed it. While Marcus prepped the new coax, I crawled in under the new addition, ready to start pulling.
It is normally very nice and tempered under there, but this day, it was blistering hot, and not any better by a very stubborn coax. It likely took us 45 minutes to pull in that cable, a job that should have taken no more than 5 minutes with some cable grease applied. I pulled so hard I even got blisters on my right hand since that was the "prime" hand in pulling in the very tight space under the addition.
But, once in, and Marcus fed some ice cold coke and water, it was a qucik job for him to termiate the coaxes and connect them to their respective splitters.
The unsightly mess is now gone from the basement, and when we have a rainy day, I'm going to take 30 minutes and just dress the cables nicely. Everything looks much better, works much better (=error free) and it starts to resemble the 21st centutry.
One can see the traces of where things used to be...
At least it's a beginning - out of the way in a closet - with cables still to be dressed behind the panel
Should be fairly quick sicne I have a 1 and 1/4 inch conduit running in the yard, all the way from their pole, to my "connection" closet. Also left a pull string when I put in the conduit so it should be an easy task.
"Marcus" showed up on Friday afternoon, seemingly happy that I had prepared more or less everything. He did not have any cable lubricant, and knowing the size of the conduit, the few bends, neither of us though we needed it. While Marcus prepped the new coax, I crawled in under the new addition, ready to start pulling.
It is normally very nice and tempered under there, but this day, it was blistering hot, and not any better by a very stubborn coax. It likely took us 45 minutes to pull in that cable, a job that should have taken no more than 5 minutes with some cable grease applied. I pulled so hard I even got blisters on my right hand since that was the "prime" hand in pulling in the very tight space under the addition.
But, once in, and Marcus fed some ice cold coke and water, it was a qucik job for him to termiate the coaxes and connect them to their respective splitters.
The unsightly mess is now gone from the basement, and when we have a rainy day, I'm going to take 30 minutes and just dress the cables nicely. Everything looks much better, works much better (=error free) and it starts to resemble the 21st centutry.
One can see the traces of where things used to be...
At least it's a beginning - out of the way in a closet - with cables still to be dressed behind the panel
Tuesday, July 14, 2009
All fascia new boards stained
Since one never knows when the rain comes, decided it was time to stain all the new cedar fascia boards. Some are VERY high up, some are nicely placed over bushes and therefore hard to reach, but what they all have in common is that they are - thanks to our great weather - bone dry and therefore prime candidates for surface treatment.
Using only oil based products and a semi-solid stain from Cabot Stains. A great product that also is easy to apply, leaving a really nice "hue" to the wood.
At this run, I'll only do the fascia boards, even though it would make sense to also stain the plywood and rafter tails (ladders are in place), but I'd rather get the exposed fascia boards done while dry. The plywood and tails are well protected and can be treated even if it might mist a bit on a summer day.
Using only oil based products and a semi-solid stain from Cabot Stains. A great product that also is easy to apply, leaving a really nice "hue" to the wood.
At this run, I'll only do the fascia boards, even though it would make sense to also stain the plywood and rafter tails (ladders are in place), but I'd rather get the exposed fascia boards done while dry. The plywood and tails are well protected and can be treated even if it might mist a bit on a summer day.
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Cedar siding ordered!
Finally ordered all the cedar siding, cedar window trim and currently looking at fastners. Will attach siding with 305 Stainless Steel screws, since I really don't trust naling into the OSB board where there are no 2x4 joists to anchor. Managed to find a few places on-line so cost for SS screws should still be below $200 for the entire project.
Ordering siding pre-stained and we should get the samples on Tuesday so we can finally get the process rolling. They "soak" the entire batch in a bath in order to get as perfect coverage as possible. It does add a bit to the price, but was not really eager to do that work here at home, or jump up and down on ladders/platforms, after the siding has been put up.
I am a firm beliver in letting building material "breathe", especially wood siding. Hence, initially I had planned to put up furring strips to allow for 1/4 air gap behind the sidng. But, since we are going with vertical siding, the furring strips would have prevented air (and water) to feely move behind the siding, so thinking of putting up a product called "Home Slicker". Anyone out there that has used it?
Ordering siding pre-stained and we should get the samples on Tuesday so we can finally get the process rolling. They "soak" the entire batch in a bath in order to get as perfect coverage as possible. It does add a bit to the price, but was not really eager to do that work here at home, or jump up and down on ladders/platforms, after the siding has been put up.
I am a firm beliver in letting building material "breathe", especially wood siding. Hence, initially I had planned to put up furring strips to allow for 1/4 air gap behind the sidng. But, since we are going with vertical siding, the furring strips would have prevented air (and water) to feely move behind the siding, so thinking of putting up a product called "Home Slicker". Anyone out there that has used it?
Thursday, June 18, 2009
Chimney is gone!
Against the will of the wife, I did tackle the chimney removal today. She was not happy when coming home and seeing the basement full of crushed clay tiles and cinderblocks, but the tone changed when she got upstairs and realized I had finished up in the living area - and cleaned up everything.
Why remove the chimney? Well, first and foremost it was in a place upstairs we intend to open completely - removing the wall between living room and kitchen. Secondly, when we put on the new metal roof last fall, I was sort of about to keep the chimney, but it was clearly cracked (see earlier post).
With the chimney gone, cinderblocks out front to be used as hidden retaining walls later, one could see that the flashing had leaked. Water streaks on the inside of the drywall, but that was it. No mold, rot, or deterioration (space is always nicely heated and dries out quickly).
It was a dusty work, but still did not take a day, cleaning up included. With a new floor stud in place, the hole patched with plywood, we are at least ready to tackle the removal of the rest of the wall.
Added benefit is also that the entry to the basemnt will be much more :logical" and the basement area can one day maybe turn in to something else than "just" a basement.
And, with the chimney's gone, I can finally pull new coax and Cat5 cables the way they should have been the entire time (hidden agenda).
No photos on the mess in the basement, it was simply too dusty to even consider taking a camera out...
Why remove the chimney? Well, first and foremost it was in a place upstairs we intend to open completely - removing the wall between living room and kitchen. Secondly, when we put on the new metal roof last fall, I was sort of about to keep the chimney, but it was clearly cracked (see earlier post).
With the chimney gone, cinderblocks out front to be used as hidden retaining walls later, one could see that the flashing had leaked. Water streaks on the inside of the drywall, but that was it. No mold, rot, or deterioration (space is always nicely heated and dries out quickly).
It was a dusty work, but still did not take a day, cleaning up included. With a new floor stud in place, the hole patched with plywood, we are at least ready to tackle the removal of the rest of the wall.
Added benefit is also that the entry to the basemnt will be much more :logical" and the basement area can one day maybe turn in to something else than "just" a basement.
And, with the chimney's gone, I can finally pull new coax and Cat5 cables the way they should have been the entire time (hidden agenda).
No photos on the mess in the basement, it was simply too dusty to even consider taking a camera out...
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Prepping for tiling - Cement boards
Spent most of Saturday putting down cement boards and prepping the floor for ceramic tiles. Apart from the normal thinset, a screw every 8th inch is needed to ensure that the we get a stable base for for the tiles. About 400 screws later and over 50 lbs of thinset, we were almost done, but for sure done in for the night. Hard work getting all the screw to properly sink in.
Actually, had to take almost every one out on Sunday and counter sink them in order to get a proper surface - even though Hardie's instructions tells you not to, but I refuse having screw heads being clearly above the surface - makes setting tiles impossible!
At least some is done
Just like a pro - hard to find good workers these days
Actually, had to take almost every one out on Sunday and counter sink them in order to get a proper surface - even though Hardie's instructions tells you not to, but I refuse having screw heads being clearly above the surface - makes setting tiles impossible!
At least some is done
Just like a pro - hard to find good workers these days
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Fixed the "hidden" corner
Dad built this corner when he was here in April, but one can see his eye sight is not what it used to be (and, if that matters, neither is mine), so I decided to "straighten it up" and make it plumb before putting up the drywall.
Being plumb is important! Hidden corner with heating duct going down under the floor (in insulated box) to pop up under the large western windows.
Secret lines... (and mandatory temporary smoke detector, a tad low, but still better than nothing).
Yes, there is mastic underneath, and then the duct tape is secured with metal tie wraps to ensure it stays in place even it dries out over the years (cheap insurance).
Wires to three way light over stairs in background and control circuit to central vacuum haging down. In here (but hidden) is also Cat5 to a security camera, power to the same, wiring to a new alarm system keypad, and other goodies. Part of corner will eventually be an "odd" shelf, since there is room to "do something" with it.
Everything is sealed and nicely secured. Central vacuum pipes to be terminated as soon as drywall is up.
Home made weights work as well!
Being plumb is important! Hidden corner with heating duct going down under the floor (in insulated box) to pop up under the large western windows.
Secret lines... (and mandatory temporary smoke detector, a tad low, but still better than nothing).
Yes, there is mastic underneath, and then the duct tape is secured with metal tie wraps to ensure it stays in place even it dries out over the years (cheap insurance).
Wires to three way light over stairs in background and control circuit to central vacuum haging down. In here (but hidden) is also Cat5 to a security camera, power to the same, wiring to a new alarm system keypad, and other goodies. Part of corner will eventually be an "odd" shelf, since there is room to "do something" with it.
Everything is sealed and nicely secured. Central vacuum pipes to be terminated as soon as drywall is up.
Home made weights work as well!
Monday, March 30, 2009
Heating and insulation underneath...
With the duct extended and now terminating in the crawl space, it was time to route it to where it was needed - a floor outlet under the big westerly windows. I could have routed an insulated flexibled duct, a quick install, but they really do not last, and the last space I want to have (heated) air leak out of a duct is outside the heatid living quarters (do not care as much is a duct is leaking inside there, the air still heats the house).
Routing the rigid duct and mounting it was not too tricky, after that we insulated it and built a box around it. Also added an electrical conduit for futre outside lights (easier to do it now than to put an ugly one on the outside).
With box finished, really left to do was to insulate the floor with R-30 fiberglass batts. With dad cutting batts outside, I pushed them into place and it did not take ling until the entire place actually also started to look good. Since this is going to be an "active" stiorage area, we covered it all up in OSB boards and could carry in all the stuff (mainly firewood and lumber) that we removed in order to be able to work there.
Upstairs, one could note a difference in that the floor no longer had that "canny" sound to it, but a more dampened "thump". Insulation is not "only" for energy efficiency...
BTW, also added a conduit for a fire alarm/heat detector here. Not needed by code, but it can be a cheap piece of mind since there is a lot of wood stored under here.
Duct from upstairs
Running under joists
Insulation, insulation
Cranky two-dimensional bend since I wanted the duct hidden up in between floor joists where possible.
Mastic underneath and notice the metal ties that secure the duct tape. No leaks here - ever!
Stringer anchored to the contrete wall. Notice how the batts are allowed to fully fill the cavities. OSB will be put up here as a "Celing" since this is after all a "working" storage area, and insulation needs to be protected.
Box is taking shape
See, bend is gone, hidden...
Routing the rigid duct and mounting it was not too tricky, after that we insulated it and built a box around it. Also added an electrical conduit for futre outside lights (easier to do it now than to put an ugly one on the outside).
With box finished, really left to do was to insulate the floor with R-30 fiberglass batts. With dad cutting batts outside, I pushed them into place and it did not take ling until the entire place actually also started to look good. Since this is going to be an "active" stiorage area, we covered it all up in OSB boards and could carry in all the stuff (mainly firewood and lumber) that we removed in order to be able to work there.
Upstairs, one could note a difference in that the floor no longer had that "canny" sound to it, but a more dampened "thump". Insulation is not "only" for energy efficiency...
BTW, also added a conduit for a fire alarm/heat detector here. Not needed by code, but it can be a cheap piece of mind since there is a lot of wood stored under here.
Duct from upstairs
Running under joists
Insulation, insulation
Cranky two-dimensional bend since I wanted the duct hidden up in between floor joists where possible.
Mastic underneath and notice the metal ties that secure the duct tape. No leaks here - ever!
Stringer anchored to the contrete wall. Notice how the batts are allowed to fully fill the cavities. OSB will be put up here as a "Celing" since this is after all a "working" storage area, and insulation needs to be protected.
Box is taking shape
See, bend is gone, hidden...
Thursday, March 26, 2009
Wanting something to do...
Dad, visiting from Sweden, wanted something to do, so he was tasked with casing in the inside (hidden) corner. Sort of an odd design, but this is a remnant from the old (exterior) overhang. Earlier this was over the steps leading up to the front door, now it was at waist height inside the new addition.
After having pulled a new 6" heating duct, a new branch for the central vacuum, power, and alarm cables, it was time to close it up. Fairly simple task, but never the less needed.
Big saw for a small hole
Protection for the metal casing, and so no animals step on the sharp edges and cut up some paws (like in 2006...).
After having pulled a new 6" heating duct, a new branch for the central vacuum, power, and alarm cables, it was time to close it up. Fairly simple task, but never the less needed.
Big saw for a small hole
Protection for the metal casing, and so no animals step on the sharp edges and cut up some paws (like in 2006...).
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